As fun as fashion is, it can be extremely time-consuming. We understand that it’s hard to watch every single show, so we made your life easier: Em Odesser and artist Anna Heath picked the ten unmissable shows and debriefed them for you!
- Felipe Oliveira Baptista for Lacoste
Lacoste’s collection was truly the paragon of sporty chic. Baptista seemed to be looking back at the early Lacoste aesthetic. Pleated mini skirts, wrapped dresses, and vibrant colors appeared to be taken straight off the tennis court, as did the models themselves, who sported minimal makeup, sweatbands, and sleek side-parts. Slitted, camel colored coats accentuated the bubbly, graphic designs. Definitely a smash hit. #ReneDidItFirst
2. Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs show was dark, severe, and completely glamorous. Jacobs nailed the gothic trend; he mixed patent leather, monochrome furs, crimsons, and metal to create irresistible and slightly fear inducing looks. Pale, gaunt models with twisted top buns glided down the runway, in an almost theatrical sense. The details were flawless: Jacobs accentuated the gritty beauty of dark tartan sheaths with nail heads, a chevron and mink coat complimented a gown with scarab beetle-esque qualities. Any girl walking down the street in a Marc Jacobs AW15 look would definitely turn heads.
3. Peter Copping for Oscar da le Renta
Peter Copping’s debut collection for Oscar de la Renta was highly anticipated. Everyone was holding their breaths- could de la Renta’s successor pull it off? The answer, happily, was a resounding yes. Copping’s designs encapsulated the femininity and grace of the brand. Floaty and frilly blouses, subtle embroidery, and impeccably tailored coats filled the collection. A chic twist on a godet skirt was especially memorable, as was the pairing of silky high necked dress in the most incredible deep fuschia color with a rich, chutney fur bolero. The delicate, ethereal gowns will definitely be a red carpet favorite, come award season. Copping’s first Oscar de La Renta show was a huge hit- we can’t wait to see how he grows in his future collections.
4. Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein
This season, Costa played with 60’s cuts and silhouettes - the collection displayed a few shift dresses here and there, some beautiful maxi dresses, and a whole lot of boxy coats. The colours were true to the brand- neutral but classic. Lots of suede details were shown throughout the collection, a nod to the 70’s trend that’s booming right now.
The type of girl Costa was aiming to dress in this collection was clear. The new Calvin Klein girl is a prepster. She embraces the luxurious, her closet is filled to the brim with mini shift dresses, tortoiseshell and tile-esque textures, and double-breasted coats. However, she has an edge, with her ragged hems, large chain bags, and dark leather. She appreciates darker twists: leather accents, and spherical cutouts. Ultimately, the brand’s famous minimalism was definitely evident in this collection with it’s subdued colours, clean silhouettes, and simple and natural beauty.
Not surprisingly, Junya Watanabe was an interesting collection this season. The almost completely black and white show had a geometrical element to it: spiky tops, boxy jackets, and netted ponchos filled the runway. Formulas were scrawled messily up and down models legs, and origami-esque hats hugged their almost completely bare faces.
This season, it seemed Watanabe was ultimately inspired by math. No, not the algebra you suffer through in school- a new side of math. Watanabe’s version is chic, yet eccentric- just like the brand itself. Clean cut angles and hard lines were prevalent throughout the show.
6. Peter Dundas for Emilio Pucci
The AW15 Pucci show was Dundas’ last for the brand, and he certainly left with a bang. His collection truly embodied the Pucci woman: a bold and sexy unapologetic world traveler. However, she seemed to have a more romantic side this season, a side that was fond of star gazing. The night sky lit up in Dundas’ collection; in knee length starry boots, zodiac sweaters, and delicate cornflower mini dresses. The Pucci glamour was upheld again and again throughout the show- in Monster-fur coats, opaque fringe minidresses, and head-to-toe velvet. Peter Dundas will certainly be missed, but no one doubts he was a star.
7. Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte
Imagine a modern day mermaid; under the sea, she’s a disco queen, but on land she’s in a biker gang. Can you picture it? This is the Rodarte girl the Mulleavy’s dreamed up this season. The collection was full of shearling-leather hybrids: blueberry colored jackets with the plushest, biggest fur hoods were paired with louche lace bodysuits, giving off a look that was ladylike and badass all at once. The collection was totally irresistible in every way. It was flirty, fun, and free. The best touch were the glittery, rainbow, feathered dresses. They slightly resembled a second grade art project, and we mean that in the best way. They were a mishmash of all things glamorous in a way that only the Mulleavy sisters could pull off.
8. Chitose Abe for Sacai
Ladies: take notes. If you ever need to take a trip down to the Tundra, then splurge on a Sacai AW15 coat. Chitose Abe’s latest designs were extravagant, paneled, and so, so chic. Huge tufts of fur sprouted from the gem toned jackets and tweed parkas. The show was full of contradictions. The silhouette's? Oversized, yet flattering. The colors? Neon, but classy. The last looks were almost kitschy, but still somehow looked luxurious. Abe pushed her looks to the limit, but never crossed the line - creating an incredible AW15 collection.
9. Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino
Chiuri and Piccioli churned out a series of knockout gowns this season. Everything felt fresh and new: the optical illusions, the floor length multi colored fox fur coats, the colorblocked paneling, the dragon motifs, and the dramatic necklines. The iconic Peter-Pan collared red dress was replaced by a sheer gown with a plunging neckline, but the classic Valentino embroidery was as strong as ever. And of course, every movie fanatic must’ve gasped, not at the piping on those crepe dresses, nor at those dragon motifs-but at the triumphant return of the two biggest supermodels of the 2000’s. When Derek Zoolander and Hansel stepped on that runway, the crowd was ecstatic. The models, in silk suits, had a faceoff of epic proportions; at one point, Derek grabbed viner Jerome Jarre’s phone and took a swoon-worthy vine, which has now been looped 17,000,000 times (gaining over 300 more per minute). This stunt was to announce their latest movie, which will be a hit: just like the Valentino show itself.
10. Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld latest designs were reminiscent of Gabrielle Chanel’s early rebellion. He brought back the iconic Chanel trends that we all know and love; tweed, little black dresses, commonplace kitten heels, and quilted jackets were everywhere. But, they had an edge this season. Karl upgraded the classic designs, toying with the silhouette. The output? A perfectly chic show. The lively brasserie that served as a runway was the perfect setting for the kind of girl who wears this collection; a classic Parisian.